Showing posts with label DIY. Show all posts
Showing posts with label DIY. Show all posts

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Free CAD programs for surfboard design



For my alaia outline I was looking for a free software solution instead of using some commercial DTP software like InDesign.

The one I used for my alaia is AkuShaper which I came across while reading some articles on Swaylocks. It's free (there's a commercial pro version, too), java based and really easy to learn. As I just needed it for the outline, I didn't get too much into the two other views needed for real 3D modelling.

The other one I came across is BoardCAD. Also free, also Java based. The screenshots look pretty similar to AkuShaper, however I didn't install it as it seems AkuShaper is the first choice.

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Saturday, October 31, 2009

New DIY skateboard with Bennett trucks and Flashback wheels

Finally I finished a longer version of the Sector 9 Superfish with a slightly modified tail. Equipped with Bennett Vector 6.0" trucks and ABEC 11 70's Flashback 78a wheels, it's a perfect setup for street cruising and puming.

The trucks and wheels had been mounted on my Superfish replica before, however turns were quite sharp. With the increased wheel base of this board, carving is far more easy.

Again the board is made of 9 ply birch and has been finished with lineseed oil (which smelled for about two weeks...). Additionally, I applied a new logo by using a stencil and acrylic paint.









Sunday, May 24, 2009

New DIY skateboards

This weekend I finished some more DIY skateboards.
Shapes: Pocket Rocket and Superfish.

Graphics have been applied using the toner transfer technique by ironing toner on the wood.




Saturday, March 7, 2009

New self-made skate quiver

In the meanwhile I finished new DIY boards:

Rocket: 66x17cm, 7-ply birch, each 1 ply fibreglass on top and bottom.



Superfish: 86x21cm, 9-ply birch, nice flex

Sunday, March 1, 2009

DIY: print on wood alternative method

Besides using the toner transfer method, I found a method called "acrylic matte medium transfer" which can also be applied for transfering graphics on any sort of material, e.g. wood.

I tried it with some acrylic varnish, however the results with matte medium seem to produce better results:

http://www.shutterblade.net/backroom/
http://spacedog.us/idlehands/matte_medium_transfer/
http://www.calsk8.com/zeitgeist/acrylicgeltransfers.htm

Sunday, February 15, 2009

DIY series: How to print on wood

While doing some research on how to transfer custom graphics on skateboard decks, I came across the so called "toner transfer method" which is used for creating custom PCBs:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Two-sided-PCB-using-toner-method/
http://joshuagalloway.com/pcb.html
Basic idea: Print a PCB layout with a laser printer on some sort of transfer material (e.g. magazine paper) and iron the layout on a platine. The heat "transfers" the toner onto the board.

So I thought, maybe this method can be altered for transferring graphics on wood.

Here's the how-to:
  1. Desing your favorite graphic
    Depending on your laser printer you can also choose colored graphics. Here is mine:


  2. Mirror your graphic.
    It's necessary to mirror the graphic as we will transfer it on the wood. Either mirror your source graphic directly or use your printer settings to mirror the print out.


  3. Printer setup
    Make sure your printer is set up with maximum density and contrast because not all toner will remain on the wood. Thefore we need all pigments the printer can give us.

  4. Print the graphic
    There are several options for choosing a transfer media for your graphic such as baking paper, magazine paper or special transfer paper. I experimented with the back of stickers or labels which worked out fine for me.


  5. Sand the wood Sand the wood with a fine grain sand paper (e.g. 240) so that we get a very fine and smooth surface. This is important because otherwise the toner might flow into the wood structure and graphic details will be lost or will look blurred.


  6. Clean the wood
    We have to make sure that no wood dust remains on the area we will need for our graphic. Some of the toner would be absored by the dust and contrast would be lost. Therfore use a wet piece of cloth to clean and remove all dust.


  7. Heat the wood
    Switch your iron to the 3/4 of the maximum heat and iron the area where the graphic will go. This will remove remaining moisture in the wood (coming from the previous cleaning step) and will heaten up the surface for transferring the toner.


  8. Apply the graphic print
    Place the graphic print on the wood surface. If possible try to fix the print with some sort of tape so that it won't move during iron.


  9. Iron
    Put a sheet of paper on the printed graphic and iron for about 2-3 minutes. Use the tip of the iron to put pressure on graphic details.



  10. Remove the transfer media
    Remove the transfer media immediately after the ironing. If you let it cool down, then the tranfer media will stick to the wood and removing it will take away some of the toner. This is one major difference compared to the PCB process.



  11. Fix your print
    As the toner is on the wood surface it can easily be scratched. Thefore use some finish or resin to conserve your graphic.

  12. Enjoy your work.
    Get a cold beer and enjoy your day's work.
General advice: Test, test, test. Depending on your setup (printer, toner, transfer media, wood, iron, ...) you will get different results. Therefore before using your final piece of wood work, experiment with different setup parameters.

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Gloss finishing product at LIDL


Today I went to my favorite (closest) discounter store LIDL to do some basic shopping and I stumbled over the following (temporarily available) product:

Baufix Klarlack (Alkydharzlack)
(http://www.baufix-online.com/produkte/fenster-tueren/klarlack-hochglaenzend/)
Price: 2,99 EUR


This might be the solution to the gloss finished problems I experienced when working with epoxy resin on wooden surfing fins.

My tries so far:
  1. Use a lot of resin.
    Which results in some uneven, bumpy surface and which makes the thing quite heavy

  2. Polishing (with car polish or toothpaste).
    Hard work, even with a polishing machine. Only works with perfectly glassed surfaces.

  3. Use gloss finish.

    I tried the Schooner from Interlux, which smells awful, is very dust-prone and never use too much of it because then the surface looks like miniature mountains.
Anyway, I tried some of the Baufix stuff on my new longboard deck today and the result looks promising...